Risi Bisi

Finely chop the onion, add to a good tablespoonful of butter in a thick bottomed saucepan and soften over a low heat for about five minutes or so. Take off the heat and stir in the peas and rice. Pour over a little chicken stock, traditionally a ladle full, and cook over a low/medium heat stirring from time to time until the liquid has almost disappeared. Keep doing this until the rice is just about tender.

Use a pestle and mortar to grind up the saffron, take a tablespoonful of rice liquid and stir in to the saffron, and then add back to the rice and stir in well. If necessary, simmer the rice a little more to reduce the liquid.

Meanwhile if used cut the pancetta slices into thick lardons and cook in a smear of olive oil until discoloured all over. Stir the pancetta into the rice.

Stir a tablespoonful (or so) of butter into the rice along with a good tablespoonful of freshly grated parmesan if the risi bisi is a starter. Stir well and season with a little salt if necessary. If it's a starter serve with some extra parmesan and a grater.